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A sommelier explains how to pick a great rosé

Never been a big fan of red or white wines? You can always heed the advice of Jonathan Ross, the head sommelier at Eleven Madison Park, to pick the best rosé for the dinner table. Following is a transcript of the video.

Rosé is not always the refreshing porch pounder that we think it is. It’s actually heavier than almost all white wines because we have colour, we therefore, have tannin. So if you were to say, “I want something with a lot of tannin”, you’re saying you want something that really impacts your palate, that’s very rich, that maybe has an astringency to go along with its fruit character or its alcohol content.

I think you can have some pretty basic rosé from kind of that large swath of land called Tavel and in the Rhône valley of France. But for me, I like rosés that are maybe from a little bit of a cooler climate. Pinot noir rosé from Germany, I think, is outstanding. Rosé Champagne. I think there’s some people who make really great rosé Champagne.

One thing I used to do is with southern Italian rosés, you’d serve them cold but really let them warm up, and they go from this kind of refreshing, heavy white wine character to almost a lighter red wine in a matter of half an hour and it’s really unique to see a wine change like that.

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