Part of being on Wall Street is wooing clients. Clients are often wooed by food. Put that together and you’ve got a cozy relationship between Wall Street and the restaurant industry.
And obviously, only the best will do. Here in New York City, one of the best, for decades, has been Le Cirque. In 2008, New York Times food critic Frank Bruni gave the restaurant 3 stars.
But, of course, we all know how things have changed since 2008. The New York Times‘ most recent review of the classic restaurant is a brutal take-down of epic proportions.
In a series of meals since the late spring, Le Cirque classics like steak au poivre, Dover sole almondine and even the famous chocolate soufflé lacked conviction. New dishes lacked rationale. Nearly everything lacked seasoning. The kitchen gave the impression that it had stopped reaching for excellence and possibly no longer remembered what that might mean.
Beef carpaccio, the chilly maroon flesh stretched out below a scattershot application of radish and celery slices that had started to curl, tasted of refrigeration and surrender. In what was meant to be a salad, a white flap of flavorless squid was pulled over a length of octopus leg like a shroud…
Roast chicken tasted the way roast chicken tasted in American restaurants 30 years ago (like nothing)…
The NYT goes on, but it’s not for the faint of heart. Sorry everyone.
And, of course, if you think the grey Lady has it all wrong, leave your thoughts in the comments below.
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