Matt Moran is back in the Sydney pub where his cooking career began

Paddo Inn Bar & Grill. Source: supplied

Back in the 1990s, when Matt Moran was a young chef from Sydney’s western suburbs keen to make his mark on the world, the beginning of his rising star was an eastern suburbs pub bistro.

Alongside the likes of Stefano Manfredi, Moran helped launch the pub bistro phenomenon at the Paddo Inn, also establishing his reputation before going on to found Aria.

Two decades later, Moran is back in the pub his now business partner, Solotel’s Bruce Solomon, gave the young chef his first big break having bought the pub three decades ago. Moran opened a new bar and grill there last Friday after plans to turn the space into a fine diner misfired.

Solotel renovated the Paddo Inn last year, then closed the dining room after just seven months for another revamp to shift to Moran’s idea for the space.

“I’m very excited to be overseeing the Grill at the Paddo Inn, where it all started for me,” the chef said.

“When we launched seven months ago, we didn’t get the dining room offering quite right, it was too fine dining.

“We’ve listened to our regulars and made it the Grill they wanted. For me there is nothing better than a great piece of meat or seafood cooked simply and that’s exactly what we are doing at Paddo Inn Bar & Grill.”

The menu echoes some of the style of his two Chiswick restaurants, with Chiswick at The Gallery head chef Laura Barratto moving across to the new venture, as Moran oversees the menu.

Yes, there’s plenty of steak — rump cap, scotch fillet, t-bone, as well as steak tartare — alongside snapper with greens and verjuice, half a roast chook with parsnip, and pork cutlet with charred cabbage and apple sauce, lamb rump with mint sauce and of course a burger.

Paddo Inn Bar & Grill serves lunch on Friday and weekends and dinner daily. The front bar is open daily for lunch and dinner offering grills, salads, sandwiches and burgers.

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