Photo: Ryan Grayson (left) and Brian Mazza
Every man needs a suit, every businessman needs a tailored suit.And that especially goes for Wall Streeters.
But in tough times like these, Wall Streeters have to be mindful of what they’re wearing. Audacious colours must be integrated subtly, says Brian Mazza of Windsor Custom, the secret suit shop underneath Mazza’s swank Chelsea sports bar. Stand out enough to look good but don’t be loud. This ain’t Gordon Gekko’s Wall Street.
We swung by Mazza’s shop where he makes custom suits for everyone from bankers to celebrities to Ryan Lochte to get a few tips on how to dress like a baller in finance.
Windsor Custom gives guys an incentive to go shopping.
'We're trying to help the man out,' Mazza says. 'Have a beer, have something to eat, and get knowledge from Ryan on how to look better and be more confident.'
Windsor Custom co-founder Ryan Grayson said much of the stuff you buy off the rack doesn't take into account that for 70 per cent of people, one arm is a quarter inch longer than the other.
'A lot of people now don't to go so dressy on Wall Street anymore, because, you know, times are tough,' Mazza said. 'Say you're doing extremely well, you don't want to come off that way.'
The culture has changed, but in a lot of ways, it's stayed the same. There's still a lot of older business guys who aren't adapted to the modern fit. They're still doing the two button and sticking to the blues and the darker suit.
Whites and blues reign supreme.
'I would push this toward a more aggressive banker,' Mazza says.
Mazza recommends a faint pink stripe, or maybe a little purple in there.
'if you're sitting down all the time, you have to be comfortable,' Mazza says. 'We see a lot of guys that come through often and they're ripping their elbows because they're constantly at their desk working. We have to make sure that they don't blow out their elbows on their shirts.'
Mazza says bankers make up a large majority of his clients and when they come down, they don't want to go crazy.
'We help them take a little more risk,' Mazza says. 'I like to keep them comfortable and not too flashy, but still enable them to have a really, really nice shirt and suit.'
Mazza adds wrinkles so it doesn't look like you're just sitting behind a desk all day. A wider collar provides more flair and makes it possible to see the tie a little better. It's more of an English look.
Mazza gets to really know a customer's tendencies before making suggestions.
'Are you going to wear this shirt tucked in or untucked? Are you going to wear this shirt when you go on Thursdays to happy hour? Is it for Friday dress down day? Those are the details that you have to find out in order to really make the client super happy.'
You can pull them off, but they shouldn't stand out too much.
'When we have Goldman guys come in here, we really step it up with them,' Mazza said.
Mazza says they've helped enough clients that he can make suggestions based on workplace.
'We really have the experience to know what certain guys can wear and not wear,' Mazza says. 'It's great when we can be like, 'oh no you can't wear that at work. I've got this one, it's even better.''
This suit is for the Olympic swimmer, Ryan Lochte, who was just fitted by Mazza. It's business on the outside, party on the inside.